Panasonic RF-2200 restoration adventures - Final

This is the last post (here the previous one) of a series about the restoration of my Panasonic RF-2200 vintage receiver. This is about the final cleanup of the radio. In one of posts I spoke about restoring proper behaviour of switches and potentiometers by using the renowned DeoxIT products from CAIG Labs. While these products proven to be very effective in my case, however I suspected I had used a bit too much of them for each device. So before re-mounting the case of the radio, I wanted to try to remove out any excess of DeoxIT from inside switches and potentiometers, by spraying a lot of compressed air into each device. Well, the amount of DeoxIT that came out from potentiometers were really in excess! It spread out over the main circuit board - without causing any damage, luckily - and I had to carefully remove it with compressed air, paper towel and some cotton swabs.
My recommendation is to use only the strictly necessary amount of DeoxIT (or similar product), especially if it is in the liquid form (the spray form usually contains a reduced grade of product, which easily evaporates together with solvents).
I already had cleaned up the front panel, back panel and the knobs in a soapy bath of warm water (see pictures below), using a soft brush for the panels and a toothbrush for the knobs.

Now I had only to re-mount the radio and proceed with renewing the black plastic of the case. I started with trying the Novus 3 Heavy Scratch Remover, but it did not a great job. I have found it too thick and a bit waxy, difficult to remove when it permeates the small wrinkles and scratches on the black case, causing it to look a bit milky and opaque, not that good really.
Then I tried to repair to my error with a normal, typical spray polisher for car dashboards. Boys, it did it! Faster, easier, cheaper and very effective: ideal for my needs. The results are in pictures below. Far from perfect, but good enough in my view.

That's all folks! I hope you have enjoyed your reading (thank you for that!) and may be you have found something useful for your own restoration project. These beatiful old ladies are well worth the effort.

Panasonic RF-2200 restoration adventures - Part 4

So here we go again. Since latest post of this series (you can find it here if you like), I managed to complete my restoration of Panasonic DR-22 (a.k.a. RF-2200BS).
In this post I will try to summarize what happened during the alignment work on the radio and to provide some suggestions that I learnt from this experience. It was quite a time-consuming activity for me, requiring care, patience and attention, because of both my limited experience in this task and the number of adjustment points on the main board of the radio.
Here below you can see the testbench, with the RF-2200, a simple digital oscilloscope and a good RF generator (I borrowed both the scope and the generator from a laboratory at my workplace). For most of the checks, the digital scope was connected to the speaker wires, where I had connected a 8 ohm, 7W resistor just to provide a safe load for the audio amplifier of the RF-2200.

The big coil made of red wire on the gyro antenna of RF-2200 in picture above, was used to transfer the RF signal from the generator to the receiver during MW alignment. I didn't try to open the gyro antenna to expose the internal ferrite rod and get a better match with the RF signal from the generator. I wanted to avoid any risk of damaging the gyro antenna itself, which is a vital part and one of reasons of the very good MW performance of RF-2200. For the same reason, I didn't performed the adjustment of the MW antenna coil, which is one of the steps of the MW RF alignment process.

For the alignment, I relied on the detailed step-by-step procedure described in the RF-2200 service manual (you can easily download a PDF copy of it from the web).
With the exception of a few cases, the procedure is fairly clear and simple to follow, but there are quite many steps to go through. Some of the checks require the front-panel controls (for example, the AFC/bandwidth selector) to be set in a specific way and I found it easy to forget this point, in the middle of a number of adjustment operations. When you see that adjusting a given coil ferrite core or trimmer capacitor does not produce visible changes on the signal level, I suggest to stop for a while and to carefully check that the setup for that specific procedure step is correct. It is happened sometimes to me that one front panel switch was not correctly set. More frequently than desired I also realized I was simply adjusting the wrong coil or capacitor...
Compared to what is suggested by the service manual, often I have had to raise both the signal level and the modulation depth (in particular, during AM tests) from my RF generator, in order to get a good signal reading on the oscilloscope. For higher SW bands (SW3, SW4, SW5, SW6), typically I needed to set at least 75% modulation depth. This could also be caused by the high level of RF noise in the lab (at my workplace) where I was performing my measures.
Sometimes I reduced the level of audio output (by the volume control) to avoid clipping of the signal in the audio amplifier, which made it not possible to look for the point of maximum amplitude during a given adjustment. In similar cases, however, first measure should be to reduce the output level and/or the modulation depth on the RF generator.

If possible, I suggest to use plastic screwdrivers to turn ferrite cores of coils and transformers and for trimmer capacitors. This allows for an easier adjustment, by removing the magnetic/capacitive effects of a metal screwdriver.
In some cases, a plastic screwdriver does not provide the required torque. In such cases, be extremely careful: using a metal screwdriver for adjusting coils and transformers exposes to a non negligible risk of damaging their magnetic cores, which I did actually with L2 and L3 coils of the FM section (luckily not heavily enough to put them out of work).
Adjustment of trimmer capacitors is very touchy. I needed to proceed very slowly and with very small increments of rotation angles in order to be able to identity the position for the maximum signal amplitude.

All in all, I'm pretty satisfied with the results of the alignment. Even if it has been quite a demanding task, I think it was definitely worth to do it. Now my RF-2200 works much, much better than when it came into my hands from eBay. In addition, I learnt a lot and I had a lot of fun while trying to bring it back to its better days.

Surfing shortwaves with a homebrew tube radio receiver

This one will be probably the last in a series of posts around my "next" regenerative receiver (as I called it when the project began). You can find my previous posts on the same subject by looking backwards from here: My "next" regen receiver - Schematic diagram of the RF stages.
Below you will find the link to a YouTube video showing some tests that I did with the radio at night (say around 21:00 CEST), just after having completed the construction. Thank you for reading!

My next regen receiver - Almost completed

This is number four of a series of posts about my new poor-man regen project. Previous posts (ordered from older to newer) were:

My next regen receiver - The power supply
My next regen receiver - The AF amplifier
Quick test of the AF tube amplifier module

Now I have completed the build with the RF stages (an untuned amplifier based on a 6AK5 tube, followed by a regenerative detector based on a 12AU7 tube, wired as a pseudo-tetrode).

The RF part of the design was copied from David Newkirk's Receivers for Watching 7120 kHz, with only minor modifications that I will describe in a schematic diagram as soon as it will be stable enough after some more tests and tweaking.

Overall, the layout and the mechanics look a bit "oddish" (it is a poor-man regen, as I said). For the chassis, I used two pieces of copper clad and some pine wood. For the back panel, I cut a small rectangle of galvanized sheet and for the front panel I used a piece of aluminium sheet which was part of a dismantled surplus equipment.
My very first tests seemed encouraging: with 1-meter long antenna wire I managed to hear quite strong european broadcast signals, in a shortwave band that I couldn't identify (I have still to make a rough calibration of the tuning range/scale).

Some images follow of the receiver as it looks at present. Next post on the same subject will include the schematic diagram and a short video clip showing the radio in operation (hopefully :-)).

The coil is 22 turns of AWG18 enameled copper wire over a 1" 1/4 support.
The Hartley tap wss provisionally set at 7th turn (about 1/3) from the ground side.
The grey (shielded) cable goes to the AF gain pot and the black one is for the AF output jack.

Another view with the main tuning variable capacitor (Hammarlund, 140 pF per section).
Mounted above on the front panel is the band spread capacitor which has an embedded 1:3 reduction drive.

The back panel has inputs for the 6,3 VAC heaters voltage and for the 150 VDC B+ voltage.

The front panel (without knobs). From left to right, top to bottom: AF gain control,
band spread varcap, AF output jack, main tuning varcap, AF output switch (speaker/headphones),
antenna input, RF gain control, regeneration control.

The hidden side, with wiring.

Panasonic RF-2200 restoration adventures - Part 2

Among first steps of almost any radio restoration projects is to dismantle the unit, both to ease deeper cleaning and to gain access to the circuit for visual inspection and - later on - for realignment and calibration. So I did. Attached below please find a collection of pictures showing the internals of my new old Panasonic DR-22 (refer to Part 1 for some more background on this story).

The solder side of the main board with the front panel controls exposed

The nice old-style mechanics of the tuning scale

The component side of main board with the tuning capacitor well exposed

Luckily, it seems that the unit does not have suffered from any major fault or repair in its past life. Internally it appeared fairly clean and in good order. After having removed the five self-evident screws on the back panel (only one of them is "hidden" inside the battery compartment) and the knobs on the front panel (all but the main tuning knob), both panels can be easily separated from the main circuit board so exposing that nice piece of vintage electronics.
It is very good for us experimenters that the whip antenna, the battery compartment and the loudspeaker can be easily disconnected from the main board without having to use a soldering iron. The radio itself can still stand up without the front and back panels and it can be very easily serviced this way, with a minimum risk of causing mechanical damages. Well done, old Panasonic designers!

The back panel dismounted with connections for antenna and batteries

Unfortunately while separating the front panel from the main board, a piece of plastic detached from around the signal meter (circled in yellow in image below). The other small rectangular piece of black gummy plastic silently dropped from inside the radio while detaching the back panel. I couldn't find out where it came from. I hope to discover its original placement while rebuilding the set.
Now I'm waiting for a stick of the renowned CAIG DeoxIT D100L conctact cleaner and another stick of DeoxIT Fader F5 for potentiometers. After having recovered a good behaviour of switches and pots I will proceed with a realignment. Stay tuned for more RF-2200 restoration adventures!

The rear of the front panel with the loudspeaker

The timestamp above says (I suppose) December 24, 1977

The venerable front panel dismounted and ready for a careful cleaning

Panasonic RF-2200 restoration adventures - Part 1

Some time ago I wanted to buy a vintage portable receiver for trying a bit of MW listening with good performances even without the need of external antennas or the complexities of software defined radio (SDR). I went through the web and read a number of reviews and finally I choose to look for a used Panasonic RF-2200. I liked its look very much and felt it was just the kind of radio I was looking for. I found one on eBay in fairly good conditions and at a reasonable price (compared to how much these sets are usually rated). Also important it was that that National Panasonic DR-22 (also known as RF-2200BS) came from Europe, without the additional costs for shipment and long processing time at customs that affect similar purchases from the U.S.. Being targeted for the european marked, the DR-22 was also equipped with an AC mains selector (220V/50Hz or 110V/60Hz) so it can be used in Italy (where I live) without the need of an additional AC-AC transformer.
Here below a photograph of the set as it was depicted on eBay:

When the radio arrived in my hands, I quickly tested it to find out if it was fully functional, what of course was partially unexpected, given the age of the receiver. While it looked fairly goon on FM (where it was possible to receive many strong signals from local broadcast stations), apparently it was almost deaf on medium wave and shortwave bands. I knew a common problem with these sets is bad contacts in front panel switches and potentiometers due to long inactivity, dirt and oxidation. So I tried to operate them a bit and something started to come out of the speaker. Well, at least it seemed that there were no major faults. The short video below shows these initial tests:

OK, even after having verified that (apparently) the unit didn't suffer from major issues, it was still apparent that MW sensitivity was quite low and the same it was in SW. Probably a realignment was needed to improve the overall performamce. Also, the switches and potentiometers required a deeper and more durable cleanup. The service manual was available in digital format from the web. It was to time to plan a restoration. More on next episodes of my RF-2200 restoration adventures.