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domenica 24 febbraio 2019

Mivar R46 vintage transistor receiver cleanup

The Mivar R46 is a transistor-based radio receiver from early '70s. Mivar (Milano Vichi Apparecchi Radio) was an Italian firm founded by Mr. Carlo Vichi in 1945 (initially the brand was simply VAR). The company produced TV sets and radios until 2014, when it became clear that it was no longer possible to fight (in terms of cost reduction and R&D investments) against competitors from abroad that were too bigger than Mivar.
More about Mivar history at following link: Mivar - Wikipedia
The R46 t is a 60 cm long radio receiver with LW, MW, SW and FM bands. It has volume (AF gain) and tone controls. The tuning dial is wide and nicely backlighted by four 6 V, 50 mA (0,3 W) lamps behind it. A big tuning knob and the band switching push-buttons complete the set of controls on the front panel, which also features a very nice signal level meter near the top right corner, just above the tuning knob. The push-buttons include the "Fono" mode switch, which converts the unit in simply an audio amplifier. The input connector for this mode is on the rear of the radio, in the form of a DIN 5-pins plug which also hosts the output connection for a tape recorder.

Front panel of R46 (left side)

Front panel of R46 (right side)

Other connections on the back panel are: two antenna connections, one for the SW band and one for the FM band (LW and MW use the internal ferrite antenna) and a mains voltage selector (with options for 220VAC or 125VAC).
Externally, this old radio looks simple and solid, with a very clean and quite elegant design.
The same simplicity and cleanliness can be found once you start to dismount the receiver: three screws on the rear side to remove the back panel, four screws on the bottom to free the chassis from the enclosure, four screws to remove the loudspeaker from inside the unit. Pull out the three knobs from the front panel and you can easily extract the chassis together with the loudspeaker. Very fast and safe.

Rear panel of R46 (left side)

Rear panel of R46 (right side)


The loudspeaker

Loudspeaker removed


Also the tuning dial (which is made by glass) can be easily unlocked from the chassis.

The tuning dial of R46

Tuning dial removed

Two of the tuning dial lamps

The electronics as well looks well designed, with a very rational and clear layout of different sub-assemblies: the RF (antenna and tuning) section, the IF amplifiers, the power supply and AF amplifier. Each of the main sub-units is individually shielded and there is plenty of room to operate for repair or re-alignment.

The electronics of R46

The ferrite rod of the LW/MW antenna

The tuning capacitor, antenna and RF sections.
On the right side, the DIN connector for audio input (FONO) and output (TAPE)

The IF section on the left of the power supply and AF amplifier

Mains voltage selector on the power supply section. On the left, the IF subassembly


The bottom side of the power supply and AF amplifier section

The bottom side of the RF/IF section

The ferrite rod wich acts as the LW and MW antenna is notably long, which ensure good sensitivity. The aerial and oscillator coils are wound over plastic supports that can be easily moved along the rod to find the better position during RF alignment operations.
My unit came in good working order (apart from the probable need of a better alignment) so I decided to spend time only for some internal and external cleaning.
First, I had noticed that the volume potentiometer was soldered "quick and dirty", probably because of a replacement after a fault of the original device. So I started with trying to improve that point.

Before and after
Then I had to improve the functionality of the band switch push-bottons, which showed an intermittent behaviour (quite tipical for old radios), especially on the MW band. I used a spray contact cleaner and repeatedly operated the switches until they started to work fairly well.
For general cleaning of chassis and PCBs I used 99,9% isopropyl alcohol. I applied it with the help of a paintbrush and a toothbrush. I used compressed air both before (to remove dust) and after the cleaning (to remove any excess of alcohol).
There was a small piece of plastic that went detached from the chassis. I restored it in place with a drop of cyanoacrylate adhesive.


The tuning dial and the knobs what cleaned up with some warm water and just a bit of soap.
Finally, the wooden enclosure was treated with a specific oil, by first applying it with a paintbrush and then by polishing up the surface with a soft piece of cloth.
Here below you can see the results, which are pretty satisfying to me:






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